Charles’ 
Slide of the Week: September 21st, 2007
Downtown Denver, Colorado, 1956
A light beacon towers atop the Farmers Union Building. In front of that a rooftop parking lot. How modern! The minimalist post and beam building in the middle epitomizes mid-century office mod. The skyline wears the red Conoco triangle like a woman wears a broach on a suit. The peach topped and trimmed building on the left bears a striking resemblance to an art deco-y Miami resort hotel tower.
Speaking of Denver I recently did a show there and got the royal tour of classic and kitschy places in the legendary mile-high Silver City. I had NO idea Denver had so much to offer.
My number one priority was having a delicious Mexican dinner (and it was delicious aright!) at one of the most over the top themed restaurants ever and timeless-classic monument to kitsch, CASA BONITA. This very well preserved, and still-amazing-after-all-the years, Americana classic of the highest order is a spellbinding time warp of the year it was built, 1973. It’s worth a trip from anywhere to experience. Eight or so individually themed dining rooms overlook a central two story waterfall where human divers take the plunge Acapulco style every twenty minutes. Each dining room is more amazing than the next. There’s the stalagmite and stalactite room; the western room; Aztec jungle room; the Cinderella and Prince Charming Room and several others. You can even have dinner behind bars in jail. They also have a baby-scale puppet theater, scary walk-through monster cave, temptation filled gift shop and beret-wearing caricature artist. I can’t wait to go back!
Next it was downtown to THE CRUISE ROOM, an original, 1933 art deco bar designed to resemble that of a trans Atlantic Ocean liner. The ultra-flattering flamingo pink lighting makes this picture-perfect jewel box-of-a bar the most glamorous room I’ve ever had the pleasure of drinking in. You will LOVE this place!
The next day I wandered around APAPAHOE ACRES, the most amazing mid-century post and beam modern neighborhood I’ve ever toured. I was hypnotized by the 125 classic Sunset Magazine style wood, brick, stone and glass mid-century modern homes, each one different, all built between 1948 and 1955.
But the highlight of my Denver trip was meeting the beloved 106-year old owner of ROCKMOUNT RANCH WEAR in his downtown shop where he still goes to work every day. He claims to be what Henry Ford was to the car he was to the Western shirt. He began manufacturing them in 1946. Please, when you go buy a Western Shirt or two from him, tell him I said hello!
Here’s to Casa Bonita, The Cruise Room, Arapahoe Acres, the 106-year old owner of ROCKMOUNT RANCH WEAR and YOU!
Charles Phoenix
Los Angeles
September 2007
11 Comments on “Downtown Denver, Colorado, 1956”
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September 21st, 2007 at 12:33 pm
My mom and dad met, dated, and married near the site of your photo (in fact, they were married in ‘56). If you have any photos of the 1st Nat’l Bank or Security Life buildings, I would appreciate your sharing. I remember a downtown building with a blank rooftop placard and changing-colored lights shining on it. I don’t remember the name of the building, though.
Thanks for the memory kick-start.
September 21st, 2007 at 2:19 pm
Charles,
All of us love your weekly postcards. They always put a smile on our face. It was great meeting you at Tony Baxter’s. I hope our paths will cross again soon. Unfortunately we will be in Chicago for both of the dates in October for your Downtown LA/Disneyland tour.
But since you have such amazing knowledge. Do you have a couple of favorite places to visit in Chicago or Route 66 from Chicago to Springfield?
Regards,
Kevin Cartwright (949) 922-8056
September 21st, 2007 at 2:39 pm
Imagine my surprise when this photo arrived in my email today. My dad used to work in the Farmers Union building, and I remember mom driving us downtown for dentist appointments and to drop by to visit dad at work. I’ve actually been on that rooftop parking lot. (Building no longer there, I believe) What a trip down memory lane - thank you for this!
Everything you said about Denver was true, except maybe for the quality of the food at Casa Bonita! (Note: not that it’s revolting, just not the best mexican food in the world!)
September 21st, 2007 at 3:46 pm
Hey Charles,
There was a Casa Bonita in Tulsa where I grew up (same company) It was sold to a new owner and is now Casa Viva or something. Same theme. Last spring we went to Denver and took the niece and nephew. Saw the hot cliff divers while dining. I noticed my food didn’t taste right and spent that evening in the hospital with food poisoning.
I’m glad you fared better.
xoxo ron
September 21st, 2007 at 6:09 pm
Hello there Mr. Charles. I found your blog while searching for information about Denver for my blog and i saw your beautiful picture here. Nice post also.I wish I could visit more often to see your slides.
September 22nd, 2007 at 12:35 am
Wo, that Mexican restaurant sounds totally cool. I am reminded of El Coyote, the restaurant that looks so small on the outside, but inside the rooms just seem to go on and on forever. I would love to visit Casa Bonita.
September 22nd, 2007 at 3:56 pm
I grew up in Denver (actually Lakewood, where Casa Bonita is about ten blocks from my childhood home. I was old enough when it opened to understand how kitschy it is, but my little brother enjoyed the heck out of it, and frankly so did I and my parents. Its the kind of place you take your Aunt Auvergne from Kansas, or your cousin Mike from L.A. if you want to mess with him. Actually, everybody should see it. Once.
And yes, the food is awfully plastic. Unfortunately, you pretty much have to eat there. There is some incredible Mexi-Colorado food in town, and all kinds of authentic Mexican regional food with cooks from the appropriate Mexican provinces. Just not at Casa Bonita.
September 22nd, 2007 at 11:18 pm
Phoenix,
Quite hilarious, but I just got back from Phoenix only to see in my email box a pic of my home town, Denver!!! We used to take field trips to CAsa Bonita in school, thats how much of a land mark that place is…. in fact, we would first visit the natural history museum, with a quick jaunt to the “central park”, if you can call it that, and then a late lunch for all the hungry little buggers in school at CASA BONITA!!! Can you even imagine an administration thinking that it was a good idea to take it there!? And I have to say, if you could have only seen it back then! Quite tame now, by many standards to say the least! Thanks for the memories Charles, post a slide of Phoenix now, another quite amazing city i think not many people know has qiuite the history behind it and very cool landmarks to boot.
September 28th, 2007 at 7:30 pm
I really enjoyed your slide of Downtown Denver! Ah…Casa Bonita. Haven’t been there in years, but I remember the best item on the menu is the endless sopapillas and it’s still a fun place to go. The Cruise Room has been one of my favorite bars for many years so that is great you got to see it! Hope to see you again at Denver Modernism show next year.
November 5th, 2007 at 1:12 pm
To help people with location, Lincoln Street runs from the lower left corner of the photo to the upper right.
The five story building in the center of the photo is the Downtown YMCA on 16th Ave. I cannot tell but the triangle sign may not be a Conoco sign but the older YMCA logo. The 20 story mid century tower in the center of the photo is now part of the bank building complex. Directly to the right of it across Lincoln is where the “Cash Register” building of Wells Fargo bank stands today. All the low buildings in the foreground including the Goodyear store have been replaced by a highrise with the turnaround for the 16th street mall shuttles.
The Red building directly under the Triangle logo should be the Brown Place Hotel.
The Farmer’s Union building still exists but no longer has the spire.
This photo was taken from the dome of the Colorado Capitol Building. You can see its roof in the forground. You cannot take a similar photo today from this location. There is a 10 story state office building between the Capitol and the Farmer’s Union to obscure the view. Most of the low buildings are gone. The YMCA is still in operation.
November 27th, 2007 at 7:31 pm
That modernist skyscraper in the middle was one of the first buildings designed by the now world-famous architect, I.M. Pei. It always stood out to me among the newer buildings downtown despite a silly 80’s “atrium” addition it now has. And you’re right…the Cruise Room is the best bar in America!